Making a habit of it

Our day yesterday was all about the beautiful town of Assisi and the history of St. Francis and his followers. Colleen, Lori Dan and I played lead car to ten other guests of the villa. Lisa decided that the heat (expected 90 degrees) and seeing more churches wasn't for her today. She got new shoes and now has new blisters that need healing before she does more walking.

Assisi is a little over an hour away, through the Etruscan city of Perugia. We got some glimpses, but may have to go back for a day of touring, if we can make the time.

We started with the Sanctuary of San Damiano, just outside the walls of Assisi. This was the home of St. Clare, who worked in partnership with St. Francis to rebuild the Catholic church (from an era of corruption) in the early 13th century. San Damiano is very simple in style and the frescos were mostly off of the walls. We were able to tour the dormatories where the Poor Clares lived and the refectory where they took their meals. In keeping with St. Francis, the Poor Clares also took a vow of poverty, so the style of all is very modest.

Next on our tour was the Ermo Delle Carceri, St. Francis's hermitage in the forest. The most amazing part of our day, the hermitage itself sits on top of a huge stone cliff deep in the forest and overlooking the beautiful valley towards Perugia. Simply amazing, there are many trails through the forest that we walked. In amongst the trails were little altars, caves where the monks slept, and the famous place where St. Francis preached to the birds. Most lovely was the fact that inside the forest, it was at least 20 degrees cooler than in the sun.

After our forest adventures, we went through the gates and into the city of Assisi. We found a little trattoria called Ristorante degli Orti for lunch and, amazingly, they had a table set for 16 that our group fit into perfectly. Dan, Colleen, Lori and I shared two of the tourista plates and ended up with samples of many pastas, meats and treats. It worked out perfectly.

Then we all headed off to tour the Basilica of St. Francis. Built after his death as a tribute, this church is opulent and lovely. As the temperatures were reaching the high 90s by this time, we appreciated their cool interiors more than anything else. Our favorite church in Assisi was a small Roman temple in the piazza that was built in the 7th century called Tempio di Minerva.

Just before leaving Assisi, we toured the Basilica di St. Chiara, (St. Clare's church) and were able to see the robes of St. Francis, St. Clare, and some other garments from the 12th century. From these, more than anything else, we could see what was meant by a vow of poverty. They were brown, with the course rope belt around the waist and simple sandles that we think of today as monks robes, but St. Francis's were patches upon patches and rough and ragged at the edges.

Our caravan wasn't so lucky on the trip home. We lost them in Perugia going through the tunnels. They made it home about an hour after us, and ended up taking a scenic route. We know how beautiful those can be.

Good wine, a dip in the pool and cold fruit cheese and bread for dinner and we were refreshed from our travels.


View of the Basilica of St. Francis as we approached Assisi


San Damiano, where St. Clare and her nuns lived.


At San Damiano's entryway, we saw 4 french nuns touring the grounds.


The lovely courtyard of San Damiano. As a sign of respect, we were asked to be silent in all of these sacred buildings.


The entry arch to the Hermitage of St. Francis.


The hermitage, Eremo delle Carceri, was built into the hillside. We were allowed to tour some parts of it, but mostly, it's about the forest trails.


Looking down on a small outdoor altar at Eremo


There were many bronze sculptures of St. Francis throughout the grounds.


St. Francis came to the hermitage to think and pray. This sculpture is of him meditating while lying on the stone floor of the forest.


Dan, Ardel and Colleen sitting among the stones. There are many natural benches built among the low stone walls of the trails.


The stone altar where St. Francis preaches to the birds.


Two nuns leaving the hermitage.


The entrance gate to Assisi


Walking towards the Basilica, we could see the stone walls of the city, as well as the bell tower in the piazza.


Basilica of St. Clare.


Walking through the piazza, the views are spectacular.


The little walkway we took to get the the ristorante. Very sweet.


Dan and Ardel after our lovely meal at Ristorante degli Orti.


How funny to see an excavator inching along the alleyway between buildings. Everything is stone here and this is how they get their work done. What's most amazing is that all of this stone, for the whole of Assisi, was originally built by human hands.


A lovely courtyard in Assisi.


The Basilica of St. Francis. It's opulance is contrary to St. Francis's work and vows of poverty. But it's tribute to the following that he acquired in his lifetime and after his death is fitting.


Roman temple, built in the 7th century. The interior was one of the most beautiful we saw, with grand use of gold leaf and marble inlay and sculpture. And by this time of day, our temperatures were nearing 100 degrees and it's interior was a refreshing 65 degrees.


The lovely stone used throughout Assisi is a beautiful mix of pink and white marble.


A detailed sculputer above a doorway. Everywhere you look, there is something beautiful to see.


Our pet of the day is courtesy of one of our Olympia area blog-followers. Menacing, sleepy or high on life? Your guess is as good as mine.

Enjoy your day. Happy birthday to Dan. We are celebrating later today with a party and the entire Mencarelli family is coming, as it's also great-grandmother Eleda's birthday. The village priest will also attend, since Eleda cooks his meals for him.

Ardel