Chocolates and exploring

Today started out with a trip to the Nestle chocolate factory just south of Perugia. We drove up there this morning and toured the Perugina chocolate museum and enjoyed all the free samples we could stand. With a couple of bagfuls to take home with us, we decided that we'd need to drop them off at L'Antica Vetreria before we could go anywhere else.

We then headed to a small village just south of Piegaro to explore for the rest of the day . . . Citta della Pieve. We got there just after 1pm and decided the first thing to find was a restaurant. The one we found was a local's hangout and our food was outstanding. But one thing we have trouble getting used to in Italy is timing. Almost all of the shops and tourist opportunities close up shop from 1pm until about 3 or 4 or 4:30 pm. Our lunch kept us busy until 2:30 or so, but after that, we walked along the streets, window shopping and viewing the architecture . . . waiting until 3pm. But it came and went and then 3:30 and even 4pm came and went and we still couldn't get into any of the shops. So finally, about 4:30 we headed for home. I just know that at 4:35, all of the shops opened and it was business as usual until 7pm when they closed for the night.

At home, we prepared for a big feast for tonight, only to discover that our guests thought Thursday was the day for our big party. So we packaged up everything and fixed a quick meal of ravioli and roasted veggies. Since our table was set outside, we ate on the patio near the pool while the sun set behind us and we all told tales of of our house and building adventures. Tom and Colleen build and remodel houses for a living, so they had lots of tales to tell and Dan and I added a few of our own.




An early package of Perugina chocolates on display at the Nestles chocolate museum in Perugia.


Packaging on display at Perugina.


Dan shows these are huge cacao pods. Inside these are many cacao beans.


Lisa and Lori in front of the pods.


the Baci is a famous chocolate from italy with hazlenut paste, a hut in the center and the whole thing covered with chocolate. It's really delicious and we tried it and many of Perugina's other tasty recipes.


Our pet of the day was a small dog in Citta della Pieve that was walking along the narrow streets as we explored the village.


Dan and Ardel, standing in the entrance of an abandoned university that is now used for theatre performances. Built in the 13th century, the interior was beautiful with it's frescoed walls and pillared arches.


A small plaque above the interior doorway of the university.


These ironwork screens were on many of the windows in the village.


This bell tower was built into one of the walls of the hill town.


The church was unusual in that an image of the madonna was above the altar.


One of the six side altars, all were decorated with marble and painted frescoes.


The pet of the day was also in our restaurant happily sleeping under the table of his owners.

Making a habit of it

Our day yesterday was all about the beautiful town of Assisi and the history of St. Francis and his followers. Colleen, Lori Dan and I played lead car to ten other guests of the villa. Lisa decided that the heat (expected 90 degrees) and seeing more churches wasn't for her today. She got new shoes and now has new blisters that need healing before she does more walking.

Assisi is a little over an hour away, through the Etruscan city of Perugia. We got some glimpses, but may have to go back for a day of touring, if we can make the time.

We started with the Sanctuary of San Damiano, just outside the walls of Assisi. This was the home of St. Clare, who worked in partnership with St. Francis to rebuild the Catholic church (from an era of corruption) in the early 13th century. San Damiano is very simple in style and the frescos were mostly off of the walls. We were able to tour the dormatories where the Poor Clares lived and the refectory where they took their meals. In keeping with St. Francis, the Poor Clares also took a vow of poverty, so the style of all is very modest.

Next on our tour was the Ermo Delle Carceri, St. Francis's hermitage in the forest. The most amazing part of our day, the hermitage itself sits on top of a huge stone cliff deep in the forest and overlooking the beautiful valley towards Perugia. Simply amazing, there are many trails through the forest that we walked. In amongst the trails were little altars, caves where the monks slept, and the famous place where St. Francis preached to the birds. Most lovely was the fact that inside the forest, it was at least 20 degrees cooler than in the sun.

After our forest adventures, we went through the gates and into the city of Assisi. We found a little trattoria called Ristorante degli Orti for lunch and, amazingly, they had a table set for 16 that our group fit into perfectly. Dan, Colleen, Lori and I shared two of the tourista plates and ended up with samples of many pastas, meats and treats. It worked out perfectly.

Then we all headed off to tour the Basilica of St. Francis. Built after his death as a tribute, this church is opulent and lovely. As the temperatures were reaching the high 90s by this time, we appreciated their cool interiors more than anything else. Our favorite church in Assisi was a small Roman temple in the piazza that was built in the 7th century called Tempio di Minerva.

Just before leaving Assisi, we toured the Basilica di St. Chiara, (St. Clare's church) and were able to see the robes of St. Francis, St. Clare, and some other garments from the 12th century. From these, more than anything else, we could see what was meant by a vow of poverty. They were brown, with the course rope belt around the waist and simple sandles that we think of today as monks robes, but St. Francis's were patches upon patches and rough and ragged at the edges.

Our caravan wasn't so lucky on the trip home. We lost them in Perugia going through the tunnels. They made it home about an hour after us, and ended up taking a scenic route. We know how beautiful those can be.

Good wine, a dip in the pool and cold fruit cheese and bread for dinner and we were refreshed from our travels.


View of the Basilica of St. Francis as we approached Assisi


San Damiano, where St. Clare and her nuns lived.


At San Damiano's entryway, we saw 4 french nuns touring the grounds.


The lovely courtyard of San Damiano. As a sign of respect, we were asked to be silent in all of these sacred buildings.


The entry arch to the Hermitage of St. Francis.


The hermitage, Eremo delle Carceri, was built into the hillside. We were allowed to tour some parts of it, but mostly, it's about the forest trails.


Looking down on a small outdoor altar at Eremo


There were many bronze sculptures of St. Francis throughout the grounds.


St. Francis came to the hermitage to think and pray. This sculpture is of him meditating while lying on the stone floor of the forest.


Dan, Ardel and Colleen sitting among the stones. There are many natural benches built among the low stone walls of the trails.


The stone altar where St. Francis preaches to the birds.


Two nuns leaving the hermitage.


The entrance gate to Assisi


Walking towards the Basilica, we could see the stone walls of the city, as well as the bell tower in the piazza.


Basilica of St. Clare.


Walking through the piazza, the views are spectacular.


The little walkway we took to get the the ristorante. Very sweet.


Dan and Ardel after our lovely meal at Ristorante degli Orti.


How funny to see an excavator inching along the alleyway between buildings. Everything is stone here and this is how they get their work done. What's most amazing is that all of this stone, for the whole of Assisi, was originally built by human hands.


A lovely courtyard in Assisi.


The Basilica of St. Francis. It's opulance is contrary to St. Francis's work and vows of poverty. But it's tribute to the following that he acquired in his lifetime and after his death is fitting.


Roman temple, built in the 7th century. The interior was one of the most beautiful we saw, with grand use of gold leaf and marble inlay and sculpture. And by this time of day, our temperatures were nearing 100 degrees and it's interior was a refreshing 65 degrees.


The lovely stone used throughout Assisi is a beautiful mix of pink and white marble.


A detailed sculputer above a doorway. Everywhere you look, there is something beautiful to see.


Our pet of the day is courtesy of one of our Olympia area blog-followers. Menacing, sleepy or high on life? Your guess is as good as mine.

Enjoy your day. Happy birthday to Dan. We are celebrating later today with a party and the entire Mencarelli family is coming, as it's also great-grandmother Eleda's birthday. The village priest will also attend, since Eleda cooks his meals for him.

Ardel

Spring festiva

Today didn't work out like we had planned on our agenda. There was a special mass at the church and the public parking blocked up our driveway for most of the day, so we were stuck at home. We had a laid back morning and made a lovely lunch from stuff in our's and Colleen's fridge. Then Lori and I swam until we were too red to be out in the sun anymore and still we were blocked in. So our plans to go to Orvieto were derailed, but we enjoyed ourselves anyway.

In the afternoon, Dan and I decided to finish up sealing La Terrazza. Even though the weather was upper 80s, La Terrazza is on the lowest level of L'Antica Vetreria and stayed very cool. We sprayed sealant on all the walls and ceilings in the living room, dining room and kitchen and brushed them down afterwards. There's still more to do, but at least we made a big dent in what Tom and Colleen needed to accomplish while they're in Italy. They plan to return to Seattle the week after we get home.

After a quick dip in the pool to wash the work away, we all jumped into the car and drove down the road to Colleen's friend Lucca's house. He was having a bona festa to celebrate the coming of spring and there were over 150 people enjoying the day. Lucca makes a wonderful red wine that was delicious and several women came around to where we were sitting in the grass and offered up their treats. There was music and dancing and it was all such a local setting of people enjoying each other, the weather and the day. Once again, thanks to Colleen and Tom, we got to experience something that not every tourist has a chance to. A local gathering of friends and family, celebrating the changing of the seasons and the coming of summer. So incredible.




Colleen and Tom invited us to a Spring festival at their friend Lucca's grainery this evening. Several of the women were performing international folk dances.


Pet of the day: this beautiful dog was at the Spring festival enjoying everything that fell from plates and small hands.



These beautiful women danced for hours at Lucca's spring festival.


At the spring festival, this sweet little girl wanted a chance to recite at the microphone . . .


Even the men joined in. We saw about 10 different folk dance. Some native to Italy and some international. It was a joy to watch.


Ciao, Ardel

Touring Siena

We ventured out on our own today, with a sketchy map that was missing much of the detail we needed. But with 4 brains working overtime, we got to Siena, parked right next to the Basilica and were touring the ancient streets in just over an hour. We started out in the Basilica and then walked through the touristy streets to the Duomo or cathedral, a gothic cathedral built in the 13th century. We toured the church for several hours, leaving the shopping to Lisa, who decided cathedrals were best looked at on postcards.

There was the Museo dell'Opera, the Battistero, the Oratorio di S. Bernardino (which we never could find), the Cripta. But most amazing was the Duomo itself where EVERY surface was carved, painted or inlayed. We had to finally move on, caught up with Lisa and had lunch in Siena's piazza, il Campo and then took in a few shops ourselves.

We didn't drive straight home, thanks to a missed turn near Sinalunga, and ended up taking the backroads, in true Anderson fashion. By the time we found our way back to Piegaro, we decided to go further and get dinner at the local pizzeria in Tavernelle. It really was the perfect thing after such a long day. Back to il Forno Une and a swim and then off to bed.

As Colleen would say, "another day in paradise . . . "



Ardel, Lori and Lisa in front of the ornate doors of the Basilica, with their inlays of cast bronze.


One of the many paintings inside the Basilica. These were amazing because of their 20' size.


One of the many altars in the Basilica. All carved of marble with inlays of marble and smaller paintings and bronze.


We walked up a TINY spiral staircase (along with many others) to see this view from the Duomo tower. Going up was something . . . but coming down was CRAZY since there were many others working their way up at the same time. We got to know some of the other tourista very well!


View from the top of the watchtower at the very top, overlooking the apartments below.


Full side view of the the Cathedral. You can see the dome is covered with scaffolding because it's currently being renovated.


View of il Campo (the piazza), with the bell tower and surrounding buildings. This piazza is the largest we've seens so far. Even in May, before tourist season hits, it was pretty busy.


View of the front of the Duomo.


One of about 20 altars inside. It was hard to photograph because the interior is so dim, but as your eyes adjust, there is something to see where ever you look.


This dias was all carved of marble. We guessed that it was where the high priest overwatched the service and granted blessings. Very posh.


The cathedral is built from white and black marble in alternating stripes. Every surface is ornate with carvings, inlays or painting. The ceiling looked to be over 150' high. Imagining this being constructed by craftsmen of the time boggles the mind. No power, no computers, just people.


The library was one of the more lighted spaces, so you can see better how the ceilings are painted throughout the cathedral.


These friezes lined the libary walls, here are two of about 20.


Even the floors were embellished. These are marble inlays to depict biblical times.


We saw a living sculpture (cute italian guy).


When Lori put a coin in his hat, he called her back and kissed her hand. Very gallant, no?


Very hot in the piazza. Imagine il Campo in August, 20 degrees warmer and full of tourists and you can guess why May is the time of year to visit.


Most everyone was holding a gelato as they sat and people-watched.


Walking through the ancient streets of Siena, a group of bicyclers rode past. These were the first, but there were probably 75 in all, peddling up the steep streets as the crowds parted to let them by.


Dan took a picture of us all (he tried to, but his arm isn't long enough) just outside the cathedral. Behind us is a close up of how the walls are carved in the pink and white marble.


In the Baptista, the altar was painted with ornate gold leaf


Another beautiful ceiling in the Baptista


Kids today think they're so out there with their skull t-shirts and jewelry. But this 13th century floor of inlayed marble shows they're really just retro.


Ornate painted ceiling of the Baptista


Painting above the altar of the Baptista


Pet of the day, a chihaua that was tiny and wouldn't hold still for a photograph. Cute though.


Painted masks in one of the shops.